A large number of Armenians lived in Damascus, including this man with his two sons. I felt a connection to Hagop because his family endured the same Turkish/Ottoman exodus that had engulfed my mother’s side of the family. Added to that connection was his name – Hagop. It was the same as an elderly man who had been a surrogate grandfather to me.
On this day Hagop was displeased. He complained to me (in English) that his sons were not as capable of running the store as he was. Here they don’t look happy either. He probably wasn’t an easy person to work for.
Mexico City trolley line and traffic on Lázaro Cárdenas
Mexico City always gets a bad rap – crowded, worn, dangerous, polluted – take your choice. The stereotyping gets a little tiring. Yes, Mexico has its problems, but so too does Montreal, or New York, or for that matter any other city in the world. On a recent trip to Chicago, for example, the daughter of a friend who picked me up at the airport couldn’t help but tell me how many recent killings there had been block by block as we approached her parent’s home. Thanks but no thanks.
One of the things I like about travel is comparing the places I go to the place I live. I’m especially attuned to public transport and traffic; one I like and the other I don’t. My best traffic avoidance technique is a bike. In Montreal we have an extensive and expanding bike path system, but also serious problems with bike-truck accidents and figuring out how to balance the shared use of roadways and sidewalks. So when I got to Mexico City I had my antennas out.
Traffic looking down on Juaréz from the Tower Latinoamericana
We travelled by taxi from the airport and the right away the experience seemed like an invitation to take public transit. In Montreal we talk about using different forms of transport but in Mexico City it’s being done. Their systems handle a lot of people, often with creative solutions to difficult problems. An example would be extending the popular Metrobús system through the narrow streets of the Centro Histórico.
Narrow lane Metrobús line through Centro Histórico – notice bikes using other lane
Mexico City is the third largest city in the world – and the metro system carries 4.4 million people a day (2012), versus the Montreal metro system’s .975 million (2013) people per day – that’s roughly four and a half times more volume per day, ranking it eighth in the world.
Main artery traffic: The only time this street quiets is on holidays or late at night
The main avenues are rivers of traffic. They start flowing as soon as the light turns green and run fast until the next red. On the main arteries merges are not anything that can be called polite. The protocol is to barge in and whoever is chicken ends up last.
Not for the weak: Locked personally owned bikes near Tacubaya turnstiles
It’s that same vehicular aggressiveness that makes it hard to believe that biking in the city would have a happy ending. To be honest, my first reaction was that biking was out in Mexico City. That was my first impression. But I always watch people on bikes trying to gauge what it would be like to be one myself. I saw hopeful signs. Some riders had their own bikes but a lot of people were using bikes from the ecobici rental system. After exploring around on foot I found easy (and used) ways through neighborhoods that avoided the main arteries. I also found well constructed bike paths.
Photographers often have visual idiosyncrasies that they repeat. I’ve always had a sense of irony and it comes out in photos of incongruous situations.
Lincoln Gap, Vermont, Fall 1970
This particular photo has a story behind it that gets lost if you weren’t the one who took it. I was driving through what we called “a high mountain pass” (all of about 740 m) in Vermont. The dirt road snaked up between a notch in the Green Mountains and at its highest point I came across this sofa.
Someone went through a great deal of effort to get the big sofa up a winding mountain road and then drop it off at the top. Maybe it was a big party that I just missed. I don’t know the answer – and you can use your own imagination to fill in …
